The manufacture of our leather goods is carried out as at the time in a totally traditional way.
This is the skill of the saddler.
We trained with former craftsmen of the Hermès Paris house.
The steps being numerous, this article will therefore not detail them all, only the most relevant for your understanding.
Choice of leather
French manufacture, vegetable tanning. We use full-grain cowhide leather, first choice.
Vegetable tanning is a chemical process that appeared in the 19th century to stop the putrefaction of skins and to transform leather into leather by making it more durable and flexible. This operation is carried out in tanneries.
The choice of leather is therefore as important as the know-how of the Maroquinier / Sellier.
We buy high quality complete skins for the manufacture of luxury manufactured goods.
The work is done with traditional hand tools. They have not evolved and are always sharpened by hand.
Step 1: Slicing the leathers
The leather we have chosen is 4.2 mm thick so we will slicing it to obtain the desired thicknesses.
Step 2: Cutting the leathers
The leather is cut manually with a foot knife.
Step 3: Roller Claw
It is a tool with a wooden handle with a knob that prints on the leather the locations of the sewing points.
Step 4: Wire Preparation
Preparation of the linen yarn, cut to the right length according to the piece to be made, then waxed with natural beeswax.
Step 5: Sewing Saddler stitch
The seam should be solid, soft, waterproof and pretty as it is also a decorative element.
The saddle stitch or lace stitch is the strongest stitch that exists, impossible to make at the machine. It comes from the know-how of the saddler who manufactures riding articles where the seams are very stressed and must be very resistant and of a high quality.
The saddle stitch is used on the handles of the Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Moynat trunks.
The peculiarity of the saddle stitch is to be made with a thread and two needles. In order to use his two hands holding the two hands and his aisle to pierce the leather, the piece is held in a wooden sewing clip, wedged between the legs.
Step 6: Hit the seam.
Hitting the seam on a marble to embed the thread in the leather the aim being to avoid the frictions of the wire and thus to prevent its wear which would cause a breakage of the latter. Also in saddlery the friction of the seams can hurt the horse.
Step 7: Threading
The finishing of the hot slices consists of two distinct operations, threading and polishing.
These two operations are closely linked even if the other preliminary operations are also very important and affect the quality of the final work of the tranches.
A hot thread squeezes and welds the fibers of the leather essential to the good holding of the seam.
The thread is also used to make decorative strips
Step 8: Labeling
The polishing and the bichonnage, consists among other things in finishing the slices with gum arabic.
Also leather patina.
These are the final stages of manufacture.
Step 9: Riveting
All that remains is to rivet these new handles on our trunks.
A traditional riveting method of striking a steel nail to deform it and create a rivet.
We protect the washer and the rivet struck from the oxidation with varnish.
Step 10: Bichonnage
Small pampering and our handle is finished.
These leather suitcases Vuitton, Goyard, Moynat have arrived with important spots on leather, spots caused by humidity or UV.
A big job of restoration and patina of the leather was done.
The characteristic of the leathers is that they are unique, fragile and delicate, they do not all react in the same way to stains and restoration techniques. You have to arm yourself with patience and adapt to each room.
The leather is original and has not been changed. It is only the cleaning and the patina of the leather to restore its shine.
Replacement of leathers
We keep the original leathers as much as possible. However, the rotting cracked leathers are replaced and patinated in keeping with the preserved leathers for a maximum quality of work.